Medan Kitchen isn’t a kitchen; it’s a grocery store. It also isn’t a restaurant; like I said, it’s a grocery store. A grocery store that’s open afternoons, four days a week (Thursday through Sunday), ...

When Siu Chen got bored during the pandemic, the 77-year-old chef decided to start Medan Kitchen, a Los Angeles take-out restaurant serving up the Indonesian food she was cooking at home. “I would ...